K-Beauty Tariffs Hit + Nigeria's AI Breakthrough

Why it matters: This creates a logistical nightmare and an immediate revenue threat for brands that rely on the US market. For consumers, it means shipping delays, higher costs, and a sudden inability to purchase from beloved international retailers.

By the numbers: South Korea exported $1.76 billion in skincare and makeup to the US in 2024. At least 25 countries have suspended or restricted postal services to the US, citing uncertainty. For some indie brands like The Unseen, the US accounts for 70% of their orders.

What's next: K-beauty giants like Olive Young are adding a 15% duty to US orders, while others like YesStyle are absorbing the costs for now. Small indie brands are in a tougher spot.

The bottom line: Without a clear resolution from U.S. Customs, the only viable long-term strategy for these brands is to establish US-based warehousing and fulfillment. This is a significant capital expense that could push smaller players out of the market entirely. It’s also a time for non-US beauty brands to start seriously building their strategy in markets outside of North America.

Why it matters: This is a major validation of the Mexican beauty consumer. Ulta's mix of mass, prestige, and professional products could capture a wider demographic than Sephora's luxury-focused model.

The big picture: This follows another massive regional move—the merger of Brazilian beauty titans Skala Cosméticos and Lola Cosmetics. Consolidation is heating up as local players join forces to defend market share against incoming global giants.

Why it matters: This move is a critical test of whether a brand built for the Indian consumer can translate to a mature, diverse Western market like the UK.

The bottom line: Success would pave the way for other Indian D2C brands to export their proven playbooks.

Mexico: Patrick Ta is launching in Mexico via Sephora, citing the market's high engagement and sophisticated consumer base as a key driver.

India: Reliance Retail is entering the crowded Ayurvedic market with Puraveda, a new skincare brand focused on traditional formulations.

Global: Fenty Beauty continues its high-touch marketing with a "Fenty Café" roadshow pop-up in the US.

Why it’s exciting: 39BC enters at the intersection of "slow beauty" and somatic wellness, where pleasure becomes grounding—a movement driving sauna culture and ancient bathing practice revivals. Reid spent a year reading texts on empire and philosophy before creating formulas, building from story rather than market data in an oversaturated wellness market.

Why it’s exciting: The brand targets "women living real lives who are bold, busy, and beautiful," representing a growing wave of Nigerian-owned companies creating for a specific consumer with a deep understanding of local needs.

Why it matters: The tool democratizes skincare access by scanning skin to detect dehydration and hypersensitivity, then connects to the brand's website backend to recommend tailored existing products.

Why it matters: This moves personalization beyond simple online quizzes. Expect other mass-market brands to follow suit, integrating deeper AI diagnostics to compete on personalization and build consumer trust.

Go deeper on diagnostics: A new paper highlights the challenges of using dermoscopy to diagnose adnexal tumors in dark skin tones, urging clinicians to be aware of atypical presentations.

Go deeper on treatment: New dosimetry models accounting for melanin levels can significantly increase the accuracy of radiation therapy, reducing the risk of skin reactions for patients of colour.

Why it matters: This marks a breakthrough for sustainable natural ingredient sourcing in perfumery across the region, establishing a framework that can be applied throughout Southern Oman as the country aims to become an internationally recognized source of iconic natural ingredients.

Be smart: Wadi Dawkah's frankincense has exceptional quality with over 70% alpha-pinene content. The certification coincides with the end of harvest season as the seasonal Khareef monsoon arrives, allowing the frankincense trees to rest and regenerate—demonstrating how traditional seasonal practices align with modern sustainability standards.

Why it matters: Rural beauty entrepreneurs are creating economic opportunities beyond agriculture while preserving traditional knowledge and ingredients that could benefit the global skin of colour industry's supply chains.

Be smart: From India to Uganda, IFAD is empowering rural entrepreneurs to grow their businesses at every stage of their journey , creating potential partnerships for beauty brands seeking authentic, community-sourced ingredients for melanin-rich skin formulations.

India's international beauty reality check: Timely discussion - while international brands "love India," they often fail to understand Indian skin—bringing limited shade ranges that miss "brown-olive undertones," extending bestsellers not formulated for India's climate, and treating the market as secondary with "older launches" arriving "after the global buzz is over."

LED masks for dark skin: While red light is beneficial for all tones, blue light could potentially trigger hyperpigmentation in melanin-rich skin, urging caution.

The sunscreen showdown in Nigeria: The Dang Lifestyle vs Uncover battle - showcasing a highly informed consumer base debating finish, texture, and suitability for oily skin.

The mineral sunscreen reality check: Cosmopolitan UK's Beauty Director Keeks Reid contends it's time to admit that mineral sunscreens with no white cast simply don't exist.

The rise of Afrofuturism: The Afrofuturism aesthetic is influencing beauty trends, championing bold, metallic, and technologically inspired looks that celebrate Black creativity.

Dubai (Oct 28-30): Beautyworld Middle East returns, set to showcase innovations in fragrance, sustainable sourcing, and wellness technology for the region.

London: Afroderm, the UK's first tattoo event for Black skin, recently took place and their planning to host an event in Africa soon.