Welcome back to Skin by TBS.
I attended the Skin of Color Society Media Day and distilled what matters most for you. Here's what leading US dermatologists—the ones treating skin of colour daily—actually recommend: the procedures that are safe, the ingredients that work, and the viral trends that are dangerous. These insights aren't just for the US—they're essential for anyone formulating, treating, or selling to the Global Majority so keep scrolling down to our special report.
Also this week: Indonesian halal giant Wardah beat Dove and Nivea for #1 in Southeast Asia, The Ordinary finally entered Brazil, and FAE Beauty raised $2M to bring inclusivity to India.
A note on our schedule: We won't clutter your inbox during the holidays. Our next edition drops January 12. Until then, Happy Holidays. Here's what matters this week.
Warm wishes,
Deepa
What Matters Right Now
Wardah Beats Global Giants to Retain "Top Brand" Crown in Southeast Asia
The Headline: Indonesian halal beauty giant Wardah has retained its title as the number one beauty brand in Southeast Asia for the second consecutive year, beating out global heavyweights like Dove, Vaseline, and Nivea.
Why It Matters: While Western brands struggle with localization, Wardah has cemented dominance by aligning with the values of the region's Muslim-majority population. It scored a 74.6 brand rating (vs. Watsons' 71.5) and just swept the "Brand of the Year 2025" at the MMA Smarties Awards.
The Signal: It proves that in 2025, "Halal" isn't just a niche label; it's a mass-market winning strategy that international brands still underestimate. Wardah isn't just competing; it's winning on trust and cultural relevance. (More)
The Ordinary Finally Enters Brazil
The Headline: Deciem’s The Ordinary has officially launched in Brazil, landing exclusively at Sephora this month.
Why It Matters: This is a major test for the "affordable science" model in LATAM’s largest market, which is notoriously difficult for importers due to high tariffs and strong local incumbents (like O Boticário).
Be Smart: The brand is betting on its "clinical efficacy" reputation to cut through the noise, directly challenging local "masstige" brands. It’s a late entry, but one that could disrupt the price-to-value ratio for Brazilian consumers. (More)
Law & Policy Update
CROWN Act Passes in Pennsylvania: Pennsylvania has become the 28th US state to enact the CROWN Act, legally prohibiting discrimination based on hair texture and protective styles. (More)
How They Scale
FAE Beauty Secures ₹17 Crore ($2M) to Redefine Indian Inclusivity
What’s Happening: Indian D2C brand FAE Beauty (Free And Equal) has raised ₹17 Crore ($2M) in a Series A round led by Spring Marketing Capital.
Why It Matters: FAE is one of the few Indian brands built entirely on the premise of "real skin" and inclusivity—rejecting fair-skin biases. This funding isn't just for ads; it's to expand their "skin-first" makeup line into offline retail and quick commerce, signaling that the Indian market is ready for an inclusive approach at scale. (More)
Skinetics Expands Aesthetic Footprint in Nigeria
What’s Happening: Nigerian aesthetic clinic Skinetics has opened a major new center in Abuja on November 29, expanding beyond its Lagos flagship.
The Signal: This highlights the booming demand for professional, dermatologist-led aesthetic treatments (like anti-aging and pigmentation correction) among Nigeria’s wealthy elite. The "medicalization" of African beauty is accelerating. (More)
Innovation Update
Grupo Boticário Invests in "Hair Science" R&D Center
What’s Happening: Brazilian beauty giant Grupo Boticário has inaugurated a new Hair Science Research Center in Paraná.
Why It Matters: This is a deep R&D play focused on "capillary diversity" and "scalp health"—two massive priorities for the multi-textured Brazilian market. Instead of relying on generic global formulas, Boticário is verticalizing its innovation to own the science of textured hair. (More)
SPECIAL REPORT: What Beauty Brands Must Know About Skin of Color (SOCS Media Day Intelligence)
The Bottom Line: I attended the Skin of Color Society Media Day so you didn't have to. The overwhelming theme? The gap between what goes viral and what actually works clinically is widening—and it's costing brands credibility with dermatologists.
Why it matters: By 2045, non-Hispanic whites will comprise less than 50% of the US population. If your product roadmap isn't optimized for melanin-rich skin, you're building for yesterday's market. These insights aren't US-specific—the clinical principles apply globally wherever you're serving skin of color consumers.
TREND AUDIT: What Derms Are Recommending (And What They're Not)
Dr. Brittany Oliver & Dr. Dhaval Bhanusali led a clinical reality check on viral trends.
❌ BEEF TALLOW: Hard No
The claim: Natural moisturizer that mimics sebum
The reality: Lack of standardization, purity testing, and shelf-stability protocols that regulated skincare undergoes
The risk: High comedogenic potential for acne-prone skin of color
Brand implication: Derms have safer, evidence-based alternatives to recommend. Don't formulate around this trend.
❌ ROSEMARY OIL: Not the Hair Hero TikTok Claims
The claim: "As effective as minoxidil"
The reality: The viral study had a tiny sample size, incorrect graphs, and compared rosemary to 2% minoxidil (derms prescribe 5%)
Brand implication: If you're marketing rosemary oil for hair growth, derms won't back your claims
⏸️ EXOSOMES: Proceed With Extreme Caution
The clinical view: "Think of them as bags—what's in the bag? Where did it come from?"
The problem: No standardization across suppliers. Some brands use the term for marketing without genuine exosome technology
What's happening: Derms are running studies (topical applications for hair), but injectable exosomes are NOT FDA-approved
Brand implication: If you're sourcing exosome ingredients, dermatologists will ask about derivation, purity, and testing. Be ready with answers or wait for the science to mature.
🔥 NOVEL HYPERPIGMENTATION AGENTS: Finally, Real Innovation
Why this matters: When hydroquinone was removed from OTC access, it created a massive treatment gap for skin of color patients. Hyperpigmentation is the #1 or #2 concern for this demographic.
Two ingredients derms are watching:
2-Mercaptonicotinoyl Glycine (2-MNG) (marketed as Melasyl)
What makes it different: It's NOT a tyrosinase inhibitor (the mechanism most pigment fighters use)
How it works: Binds directly to melanin precursors, blocking both eumelanin and pheomelanin without damaging melanocytes
The evidence: Small but promising study in Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology showed statistically significant improvement in Fitzpatrick IV-VI skin with acne-related PIH over 12 weeks
Formulator note: This is a differentiated mechanism worth exploring
Thiamidol (Isobutylamido Thiazolyl Resorcinol)
What makes it different: One of the most potent inhibitors of human tyrosinase (most competitors were tested on mushroom tyrosinase, which is structurally different)
Brand implication: This is a science-backed talking point that resonates with dermatologists
Dr. Oliver's verdict: "It's hard not to get excited about more tools in the toolkit for such a stubborn problem. I plan on implementing this into my practice."
THE TWEEN SKINCARE PROBLEM: A Market Derms Want Regulated
What's happening: Children as young as toddlers are now being targeted with skincare products, including sheet masks designed for toddlers with "cute animal prints".
The clinical concern:
Kids using retinols, peptides, and active ingredients not formulated for young skin.
Irritant contact dermatitis cases appearing in dermatology clinics.
Early messaging about appearance and "perfection" at developmentally critical ages.
Dr. Oliver's position: "It depends"
✅ Basic, age-appropriate routine (gentle cleanser, moisturizer if dry, sunscreen)
❌ Multi-step routines with anti-aging actives, expensive products with no clinical benefit for young skin
Brand implication: If you're targeting the "mini-me" skincare market, dermatologists are watching—and they're not impressed. There's a difference between building healthy habits and creating anxiety about appearance in pre-teens.
AESTHETIC PROCEDURES: What's Safe (And What Requires Expertise)
Dr. Nkem Ugonabo & Dr. Nada Elbuluk
The core principle: Melanin-rich skin has larger, more dispersed melanosomes and more "labile" (reactive) melanocytes. Every procedure carries higher risk of dyschromia, particularly post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
Chemical Peels: Stick to Superficial
Safe zone: Alpha/beta hydroxy acids at superficial depths (staying in the epidermis)
Danger zone: Medium-to-deep peels (papillary/reticular dermis) = months-long hyperpigmentation risk
Critical protocol: Pre-treatment is non-negotiable
Sunscreen (always)
Antivirals (if prone to cold sores)
Sometimes: Pre-lightening with tyrosinase inhibitors to prevent rebound pigmentation
The same rigor applies post-treatment: Strict sun protection, gentle skincare, no picking
Lasers: Not All Are Created Equal for Melanin-Rich Skin
The fundamental challenge: Melanin in the epidermis competes with the laser's intended target. If the laser accidentally affects baseline melanin → dyspigmentation.
Dr. Ugonabo's go-to lasers:
Hair removal: Long-pulse Nd:YAG (gold standard).
Resurfacing: Non-ablative fractionated lasers.
Discrete pigmented lesions: Q-Switch or Pico lasers.
Critical settings adjustment for skin of color:
Lower density (the #1 factor that causes PIH in studies).
Gradual energy increases with each treatment.
Immediate post-procedure care: Sometimes topical triamcinolone (steroid) is applied immediately to control rebound pigmentation.
Cautionary tale: Dr. Ugonabo showed a patient treated at an outside medspa with laser hair removal who developed significant hyperpigmentation—a direct result of incorrect settings for her skin type.
RF & Ultrasound: Green Light ✅
Why they're safer: These modalities target the deeper dermis or SMAS layer (superficial muscular aponeurotic system, beneath the fat), bypassing epidermal melanin entirely.
Radiofrequency (RF):
Uses electrical energy to generate controlled heat in the dermis.
Targets water in tissue.
Stimulates collagen/elastin → skin tightening.
Variants: Monopolar (deeper penetration), Bipolar (more superficial).
With microneedling: Can address acne scarring and stretch marks.
Ultrasound (HIFU):
Uses focused ultrasound waves to create thermal zones.
Can reach deeper than RF—down to the SMAS layer (what plastic surgeons manipulate during facelifts).
Newer devices: Offer real-time visualization of where energy is being delivered for precision.
Expectations to set:
Results take time (2-6 months for new collagen production).
Often requires more than one session.
Best results when combined (fillers, neurotoxins, fat-dissolving injectables).
HAIR LOSS: What Beauty Brands Need to Know
Dr. Prince Adotama & Dr. Victoria Barbosa
The Environmental Trigger Mystery in Frontal Fibrosing Alopecia (FFA)
What's happening: Prevalence is skyrocketing—derms went from seeing one FFA patient every few months to several per week.
Why it matters for formulators: This suggests an environmental trigger. Current suspects being discussed at derm conferences:
Titanium dioxide (in sunscreens) - seen in multiple studies.
Linalool (fragrance ingredient, derived from plants) - anecdotal evidence shows disease stabilization when patients avoid it.
The formulation implication: If you're developing products for hairline/scalp use, consider formulating without these ingredients or monitoring this research closely.
CCCA: A Massive Unmet Treatment Need
Central Centrifugal Cicatricial Alopecia is the most common scarring alopecia in Black women, starting at the crown.
The market gap: ZERO FDA-approved treatments. Derms are using off-label options (topical/injectable steroids, antibiotics, anti-malarials, minoxidil) and emerging treatments like JAK inhibitors, metformin, and apremilast.
The opportunity: Early intervention is critical, but lack of public awareness means most patients present late. Brands that can educate and provide evidence-based solutions have a wide-open market.
PRP Is the "Natural" Hair Growth Alternative
Platelet-Rich Plasma is gaining traction as a safe, natural option for patients who don't want medication side effects.
Why derms like it: No medication side effects, safe for all patients, works for hair loss.
The challenge: Different PRP systems (platelet-rich fibrin matrix, standard PRP, etc.) yield different results, making it hard to compare studies and set consumer expectations.
The cost: $700-$1,500+ per session, with 3 initial treatments needed.
Alopecia Areata Gets Real Treatments (Finally)
The breakthrough: 3 JAK inhibitors approved in the last 3 years—the first-ever FDA-approved treatments for alopecia areata (autoimmune hair loss).
The insight: Early intervention = better outcomes. These medications are now approved for children as young as 12, with studies underway for age 6+.
Why it matters: This is shifting the treatment paradigm from "wait and see" to "treat aggressively early."
Laser Hair Removal for Razor Bumps: A Medical Treatment with an Access Problem
The clinical reality: Laser hair removal is the gold-standard medical treatment for pseudofolliculitis barbae (razor bumps), which affects up to 83% of men of African descent.
The access gap: Less than 20% of US insurance plans cover it.
The opportunity: This is a medical need being paid for out-of-pocket. Clinics and brands that can provide accessible, safe laser hair removal for skin of color (long-pulse Nd:YAG laser) are addressing a significant health equity issue.
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